The shower sputtered, the washing machine paused, and the kitchen tap dribbled. No warning—just a hard stop to daily life. Low pressure and intermittent water aren’t inconveniences on a private well; they’re full-stop emergencies. As PSAM’s technical advisor, I’ve crawled into more well pits than I can count, pulled scorched motors, and swapped out cracked housings at 10 p.m. When your water dies, the only question that matters is: how do we get dependable pressure back—fast—and keep it there for the next decade?
A few nights ago, I took a call from the Fang family near Philipsburg, Montana. Mateo Fang (39), a high school math teacher, and his wife, Liya (37), who runs a small goat dairy, live on 12 acres with their kids, Jonah (10) and Claire (7). Their 280-foot well had been limping along: weak showers, slow irrigation, and a pump short-cycling itself to death. Their previous 3/4 HP budget unit from Everbilt never matched the well depth or GPM demand and finally quit during evening barn chores—right when Liya needed to wash down the milking parlor. The well produces clear but slightly gritty water seasonally, which chews through lesser impellers. I walked them through a Myers Predator Plus solution: the right horsepower, right staging, and a no-nonsense installation plan.
This guide distills what I shared with the Fangs—and what I’ve taught contractors for years—into ten practical moves that restore and maintain strong pressure using a Myers deep well pump. We’ll cover stainless-steel longevity, Pentek XE motor power, sizing by TDH and pump curves, 2-wire vs 3-wire decisions, staging for pressure, protecting against grit, and installation best practices that prevent short cycling. Along the way, I’ll explain why Myers outlasts mid-range brands like Red Lion and why I often prefer it over premium competitors such as Franklin Electric in real-world maintenance scenarios. If you rely on private well water, these are the moves that matter.
Awards and real-world proof? Myers Predator Plus submersibles bring 80%+ hydraulic efficiency near BEP, an industry-leading 3-year warranty, Made in USA construction, and Pentair-backed engineering. That’s the combination that keeps households running and avoids the replacement treadmill. At Plumbing Supply And More (PSAM), my team stocks the Myers lines with same-day shipping on in-stock items, full installation kits, and the pump curve charts I use when sizing for tricky wells. Let’s get your pressure back.
#1. Myers Predator Plus Stainless Steel Build – 300 Series Components, Lead-Free, Built to Beat Low Pressure Long-Term
Reliable pressure starts with a pump that doesn’t deteriorate in your water chemistry. That’s why material selection is everything. If the housing corrodes or the wear rings gall, you lose performance and pressure—often slowly, then all at once.
The Myers Predator Plus Series uses a full 300 series stainless steel architecture across the shell, discharge bowl, shaft, coupling, wear ring, and suction screen. Every submerged component faces oxygen-depleted, mineral-rich water and thermal cycling. Stainless maintains clearance tolerances and impeller alignment, so the pump holds curve performance year after year. Add engineered composite, Teflon-impregnated staging and you get self-lubricating wear resistance in grit, which protects pressure output under real-life conditions. This is the bones-and-muscle build that keeps your submersible well pump on its pressure points instead of falling off in year four.
For the Fangs’ 280-foot well and mild grit, stainless construction avoids the seizure and scale I’ve seen on cast-iron bowls. Their upgrade immediately stabilized pressure, especially on second-floor showers.
Stainless vs corrosion: the quiet pressure killer
Corrosion expands and distorts pump internals, increasing friction and lowering GPM rating. On marginal builds, that means wider performance losses at typical household pressures. With stainless, clearances stay true, so the pump’s pump curve remains predictable, which keeps showers strong even when the pressure switch calls for 60 PSI.
Wear resistance where it counts
Composite, self-lubricating impellers tolerate micro-abrasive loads and seasonal grit—common in mountain-region wells. Maintaining impeller geometry means sustained head generation and fewer service calls, which directly translates to steady pressure at fixtures.
Field-friendly and compliant
Being NSF certified, UL listed, and CSA certified means safe, predictable performance. Combine that with a field serviceable threaded assembly and future maintenance doesn’t require a full system swap—just pull, repair, and reset pressure.
Key takeaway: Start pressure protection at the materials level. Stainless and Teflon-impregnated staging keep the pump delivering design pressure for the long haul.
#2. Pentek XE High-Thrust Motor – Efficient Power, 230V Single-Phase Muscle, and Lightning/Thermal Protection for Pressure Stability
Pressure at the tap is only as good as torque at the shaft. The Pentek XE motor on Myers Predator Plus pumps brings high-thrust bearings, robust rotor design, and smart protections that add up to reliable pressure delivery.
High efficiency near best efficiency point (BEP) means lower amperage draw for a given TDH, and that’s where the savings and pressure consistency live. Under start/stop cycles, thermal mass and thermal overload protection keep windings alive; when a summer storm pops nearby, built-in lightning protection reduces the risk of motor failure. In real homes with variable demand, efficient thrust and protective electronics reduce pressure dips and extend motor life.
Mateo and Liya stepped up to a 1 HP Predator Plus with a Pentek XE motor at 230V. Their old unit started hard and ran hot. The Myers motor runs cooler with better start torque—proven by steady pressure rise and quicker recovery after irrigation shuts off.
High thrust equals reliable staging
Deep wells depend on thrust capability to keep multi-stage assemblies aligned and happy. With the XE motor’s thrust bearings, impeller stacks remain true under vertical load, so head stays consistent at higher discharge pressures.
Electrical reliability under real conditions
Stable voltage plus thermal protection equals fewer nuisance trips and better pressure consistency. When your motor isn’t flirting with thermal limits, it holds pressure under simultaneous demands—shower plus laundry plus hose bib.
Efficiency meets dollars and PSI
At 80%+ hydraulic efficiency near BEP, operating costs drop. Lower heat equals longer life, which equals steady pressure. Over a decade, this adds up to hundreds saved while your fixtures feel municipal-strong.
Key takeaway: Motor quality is pressure insurance. Pentek XE makes Myers’ pressure delivery smooth, fast, and reliable—especially in deep wells.
#3. Sizing by TDH, Not Guesswork – Match 1/2, 3/4, 1, 1.5, or 2 HP to Depth, GPM, and Pressure Switch Settings
Low pressure often traces back to mis-sizing. Too small an HP or the wrong staging, and you’re fighting physics. We size by TDH (total dynamic head): static water level + drawdown + friction loss + required pressure in feet (PSI x 2.31).
For a typical rural home, plan 7–12 GPM at 40/60 PSI. If your static water level sits at 200 feet and you want 60 PSI at the tank, your TDH often lands between 260–330 feet depending on plumbing layout. In that band, a 1 HP Myers Predator Plus with the correct stages will deliver high-pressure flow without living on the ragged edge.
The Fangs’ old pump was 3/4 HP rated around 10 GPM in shallow TDH. At 280-foot depth with 60 PSI target, it never had the headroom. We moved them to a 1 HP, 10–12 GPM staging, and pressure stabilized across the house.
Calculate TDH the right way
- Static level: 180 ft Drawdown at peak: +30 ft Friction loss: +20 ft (based on pipe size and flow) Pressure at 60 PSI: +138 ft Total: ~368 ft TDH. Select a pump curve that delivers your needed GPM at that head, not just shut-off head bragging rights.
Pump curves trump marketing labels
Ignore generic “for 300 ft wells.” Read the pump curve. You want your working point at or slightly left of BEP, not near shut-off. That’s where efficiency and pressure stability live.
Pressure switch matters
A 40/60 pressure switch vs 30/50 is a different TDH target. Size to the higher setpoint plus friction and depth. If you change the switch later, confirm your pump can handle the new setpoint.
Key takeaway: Proper TDH-based sizing cures chronic low pressure. We’ll help you pick the exact Myers staging for your well and switch.
#4. Multi-Stage Muscle – How Teflon-Impregnated Impellers Turn Depth into Consistent PSI at the Tap
Deep wells need stacked impellers to create head. The Myers Predator Plus multi-stage pump design uses engineered composite impellers with Teflon-impregnated staging that self-lubricate under load. That means your pressure doesn’t sag as the pump ages. Each stage adds a measured increment of head; together they overcome depth and maintain the 50–60 PSI you want in the house.
If you notice pressure dips during simultaneous use, odds are your impeller stack can’t generate enough head at your flow rate. Upgrading to the right stage count and a durable composite design changes everything. For Mateo and Liya, we selected a staging set optimized for 10–11 GPM at roughly 340–360 feet TDH. Their upstairs shower finally felt like city water.
Stages matched to flow
More stages aren’t automatically better; they must match the flow rate you actually use. Overshooting reduces efficiency, undershooting kills pressure. Myers’ curves make finding the sweet spot straightforward.
Abrasion resistance keeps pressure
Grit scores and erodes poor-quality impellers, widening clearances and lowering head. Teflon-impregnated composites resist this wear, preserving stage lift and pressure over time.
Internal check and cable guard details
A proper internal check valve and cable guard keep backflow and cable chafing from undermining long-term performance. It’s pressure insurance built inside the pump.
Key takeaway: Multi-stage done right is the pressure engine. Myers’ composite stages hold their head numbers—and your family notices the difference immediately.
#5. 2-Wire vs 3-Wire – Choose the Control Strategy That Stabilizes Pressure and Simplifies Installation
Configuration affects both installation speed and long-term reliability. Myers offers both 2-wire configuration and 3-wire well pump options. With 2-wire, start components are integral to the motor, which reduces parts count and simplifies setup. With 3-wire, a control box sits topside, making certain diagnostics and start capacitor swaps easier.
For many residential deep wells, a 2-wire 230V setup is clean and reliable—fewer external components, fewer failure points, and often a lower upfront cost. Where diagnostics or long runs demand, 3-wire is a solid choice. The Fangs opted for 2-wire to eliminate the external control box. With a properly sized pressure tank and switch, the system now ramps and recovers smoothly.
When to use 2-wire
Shorter runs, simpler installs, and homeowners who prefer fewer external components. It’s my go-to in many 8–12 GPM residential systems for clean, repeatable results.
When 3-wire shines
Long wire runs, tricky starting conditions, or contractor preference for quick capacitor swaps without pulling the pump. With a quality Myers control box, you keep pressure control at arm’s length.
Voltage and wire gauge discipline
Run the correct gauge to keep voltage drop under control at startup. Proper voltage equals proper torque, which equals pressure stability. Don’t undersize the cable.
Key takeaway: Both systems work. Myers gives you options. Pick the configuration that fits your install and service preferences myers pump submersible and keeps pressure on point.
#6. Pressure Tank, Switch, and Cycle Control – Stop Short Cycling and Protect Household Pressure
A powerful pump with a small or failing pressure tank will short-cycle, hammer, and deliver unstable pressure. Balance the pump’s GPM with proper tank drawdown to maintain smooth flows. Pair with a reliable pressure switch—often 40/60 for modern homes—and consider a cycle control valve if usage patterns cause frequent on/off events.
The Fangs’ 20-gallon tank was undersized for their demand. We upgraded to a 44-gallon tank with proper pre-charge and tightened the pressure band. Now their pump runs longer, rests longer, and pressure at fixtures is steady.
Tank sizing matters more than most think
Drawdown should match your flow and usage. Larger drawdown equals longer run times per cycle, which reduces motor thermal stress and preserves pressure consistency.
Fine-tune the pressure switch
Set the cut-in and cut-out to meet household needs. A steady 40/60 range eliminates the “weak/strong/weak” feel. Always set tank pre-charge 2 PSI below cut-in.
Add protection components
Use a quality check valve at the tank tee, install a pitless adapter correctly, and consider a cycle stop valve where irrigation or livestock watering creates prolonged low-demand conditions. That control saves motors and pressure behavior.
Key takeaway: Pressure control isn’t just the pump. Treat the tank and switch as equal partners in stable household pressure.
#7. Installation Best Practices – Pitless Adapter, Drop Pipe, and Wire Splice Work That Keep Pressure on Curve
Pressure loss isn’t only about pump capacity. Poor installation introduces friction and flow restrictions that steal PSI. Clean, code-compliant installs using the right drop pipe, smooth transitions, and properly rated fittings preserve pump performance.
For the Fangs, we replaced kink-prone poly with SDR-rated poly and true barbed fittings with dual clamps at each joint. We used a torque arrestor, safety rope, and quality wire splice kit to keep the cable from rubbing. Every detail protects both flow and long-term pressure.
Pipe sizing and friction control
Match drop pipe to flow. For 10–12 GPM, 1” drop pipe is typical; step up where runs are long or elbows are tight. Keep transitions smooth—no sharp reducers that cause localized pressure loss.
Electrical splices and sealing
Use heat-shrink, resin-filled splices rated for submersible use. Poor splices cause heat, voltage drop, and intermittent starts—each one a pressure enemy.
Venting and well cap integrity
A proper well cap protects against contaminants, and a sealed conduit keeps moisture off connections. Clean service equals clean performance at pressure.
Key takeaway: Install discipline protects flow and pressure. If you’re DIY-ing, follow PSAM’s install kit checklist. If you’re hiring, insist on these standards.
#8. Comparison Deep-Dive: Myers vs Franklin Electric and Red Lion – Materials, Motors, Efficiency, and Real Costs
Materials and motors separate decade-long pressure from three-year drip-and-die. Myers leverages 300 series stainless steel for bowls and shells, paired with the Pentek XE motor. Franklin Electric builds respected motors and submersibles, but some configurations lean on proprietary control solutions that can steer you toward dealer-only service paths. Mid-range brands like Red Lion use thermoplastic housings on certain models which, in my field experience, crack under repeated pressure cycles and temperature swings.
In real installs, I see Myers’ stainless assemblies maintain pump curve performance longer in mineral-rich wells. Efficiency near BEP reduces heat and keeps GPM-to-PSI conversion consistent under mixed household demand. Franklin units can perform well but often require specific control boxes and supply networks; serviceability for general contractors may be slower. Red Lion’s thermoplastics are price-attractive initially but struggle with long-term pressure reliability under daily cycling.
Across ten years, the calculus is simple: fewer replacements, fewer call-backs, less downtime, and tighter pressure bands. With Myers’ 3-year warranty, field-serviceable threaded assembly, and Pentair R&D backing, the reliability-to-cost ratio pencils out for rural households dependent on their wells. If dependable pressure is the goal—not just initial price—Myers is worth every single penny.
#9. Warranty, Serviceability, and Parts – Why a 3-Year Backstop and Threaded Assembly Keep Your Water On
Nothing restores confidence like knowing you’re covered. Myers’ 3-year warranty leads the field in practical protection, and when paired with PSAM’s in-stock parts, it means fewer dry spells and faster recoveries. The Predator Plus’ threaded assembly allows on-site service: pull the unit, rebuild internals if needed, and keep the motor if it’s sound.
For Mateo and Liya, this was a major decision point. They wanted an asset, not a consumable. With Myers, future maintenance doesn’t equal full replacement. Now, if grit ever nicks a stage, we can swap parts and get pressure back the same day.
Warranty coverage that matters
Thirty-six months of coverage on defects and performance gives real breathing room. That’s double or triple the coverage of budget brands and longer than many mid-range warranties.
Parts availability
From intake screens to wear rings and impellers, PSAM stocks the pieces contractors need. We also ship same-day on in-stock Myers pumps for emergencies.
Documentation and curves
Full manuals, troubleshooting guides, and pump curve charts make diagnostics and sizing transparent. Knowledge equals fewer mistakes and stronger pressure.
Key takeaway: Serviceability and warranty support the pressure story. With Myers and PSAM, you’re not stuck waiting on water.
#10. Realistic Maintenance – The Annual Checklist That Preserves PSI and Extends Service Life to 8–15 Years (or More)
Strong pressure tomorrow depends on maintenance today. I recommend a quick annual inspection and a deeper three-year review. It’s simple, fast, and extends service life.
For the Fangs, we set a spring appointment: check tank pre-charge, test drawdown, verify switch calibration, inspect wire connections, and sample water for abrasives and iron. When a system runs within its design envelope, 8–15 years is the realistic service range—extended to 20+ with excellent care.
Annual pressure and tank tune-up
- Verify pressure tank air charge (2 PSI below cut-in) Confirm switch setpoints and differential Check for pump cycling frequency changes Small drift in these numbers often signals flow restrictions or impending component wear.
Water quality and flow audit
Test for grit, iron, and hardness. If grit rises seasonally, consider a spin-down filter at the tank tee to protect fixtures. Keep an eye on pressure at peak demand; creeping losses hint at clogged screens or piping.
Electrical and mechanical checks
Inspect splices, grounds, and amp draw. Listen for chatter at the switch. Confirm no leaks at the tank tee and fittings. Minor fixes prevent major pressure problems.
Key takeaway: Maintenance is pressure insurance. Ten minutes in spring beats a dry-house emergency in August.
Detailed Comparison: Myers vs Goulds Pumps – Corrosion Resistance, Impeller Durability, and Real-World Pressure Consistency
On long-term pressure performance, materials and staging design make or break the experience. Myers’ use of 300 series stainless steel across the shell and wear surfaces resists acidic or mineral-heavy water that can challenge mixed-metal assemblies. Select Goulds models incorporate cast iron components; in wells with lower pH or higher iron, I’ve documented corrosion that drifts stage clearances and trims head capability over time. Myers’ Teflon-impregnated staging helps the pump maintain pressure against grit exposure, where traditional composites or metallic stages may scuff and lose efficiency.
In installation practice, I’ve found Myers units hold their curve better in the 8–12 GPM residential band, especially with 40/60 PSI demands at 200–350 feet TDH. Fewer performance dips translate into predictable shower pressure and irrigation consistency. Add the 3-year warranty, field serviceable design, and Pentair-backed motor technology, and service intervals stretch meaningfully longer.
Consider the total cost of pressure: the price of a pump, the cost of labor, energy consumption, and the pain of downtime. Myers’ stainless architecture, composite staging, and support network flatten that curve. In households like the Fangs’, where water is business and life, the Myers delta in reliability is worth every single penny.
Bonus Comparison: Myers vs Grundfos – Control Simplicity, 2-Wire Savings, and Pressure at Real-World Duty Points
Grundfos builds premium systems with advanced control options, often favoring 3-wire configurations with more complex top-end control strategies. In contractor hands, they perform well. However, for many rural homeowners, the added control gear increases upfront cost and complicates troubleshooting. Myers offers both 2-wire and 3-wire solutions, with widely used 2-wire configuration that eliminates the external control box in many residential installs and trims $200–$400 off installation costs without sacrificing pressure performance.
On efficiency, both lines can operate respectably near BEP, but I see Myers hitting the practical sweet spot for 7–12 GPM homes at typical 40/60 settings. Stainless bowls, composite staging, and the Pentek XE motor deliver the torque and stability deep wells need without additional electronics. For the Fangs, the simpler 2-wire approach restored strong pressure quickly and cut future service complexity.
From a value perspective, especially when PSAM’s same-day shipping can get water flowing again overnight, Myers gives rural families long-lived pressure with fewer moving parts. Fewer boxes, fewer failures, strong curves—worth every single penny.
FAQ: Expert Answers to Your Most Pressing Myers Deep Well Pump Questions
1) How do I determine the correct horsepower for my well depth and household water demand?
Start with TDH: static water level + drawdown + friction loss + desired pressure (PSI x 2.31). For a 200-foot static level, 20 feet drawdown, about 20 feet friction, and 60 PSI (138 feet), TDH ≈ 378 feet. Then match the pump curve for your target flow—usually 7–12 GPM for a home. If 10 GPM at ~380 feet is the goal, a 1 HP Myers Predator Plus with proper stages typically fits. Undersize and you’ll see weak showers and long recovery; oversize and you’ll short-cycle unless you increase tank capacity. Rick’s recommendation: call PSAM with your depth, pressure switch (30/50 or 40/60), and pipe size. We’ll select the specific model that hits your working point just left of BEP for efficiency and steady pressure.
2) What GPM flow rate does a typical household need and how do multi-stage impellers affect pressure?
Most homes operate smoothly at 7–12 GPM. Larger families, irrigation, or livestock watering may require 12–20 GPM. Multi-stage impellers stack head: each stage adds lift. More stages generate higher pressure at a given flow. Myers’ Teflon-impregnated staging maintains geometry in gritty environments, which preserves head and keeps your 40/60 PSI performance stable. If you’re right on the edge—say, a two-bath home plus light irrigation—choose a stage configuration that maintains at least 8–10 GPM at your TDH so showers don’t sag when a hose is running. I’ve kept many systems rock-solid simply by matching stage count to real usage.
3) How does the Myers Predator Plus Series achieve 80% hydraulic efficiency compared to competitors?
Efficiency comes from tight clearances, smooth flow paths, precise engineered composite impellers, and a motor that doesn’t waste torque as heat. Myers tunes hydraulics so your working point sits near best efficiency point (BEP). Pair that with the Pentek XE motor—low amperage draw for the delivered head—and you get a system that uses less energy to make the same pressure. Over a decade, the 10–20% energy savings add up, and the lower internal wear sustains GPM at pressure. For deep wells, that’s the difference between a pump that performs its curve for years and one that fades at year three.
4) Why is 300 series stainless steel superior to cast iron for submersible well pumps?
Submerged, oxygen-limited environments plus minerals create a corrosive playground. 300 series stainless steel resists pitting and scale far better than cast iron, maintaining precise stage alignment and impeller clearance. When those tolerances hold, the pump continues to hit its curve—meaning pressure at 50–60 PSI remains consistent. Cast iron components can corrode, especially in acidic or iron-rich water, opening clearances, increasing friction, and dropping head generation. That translates into weaker showers and longer tank recovery. Stainless keeps the inside of the pump honest, which protects your household pressure.
5) How do Teflon-impregnated self-lubricating impellers resist sand and grit damage?
Grit acts like sandpaper on rotating parts. Teflon-impregnated staging creates a lubricious surface that sheds micro-abrasive particles and reduces heat. As a result, impeller edges retain shape, and wear rings keep their sealing function—both essential to maintain head. In wells with seasonal sand intrusion or after heavy draw events, this material advantage is the difference between holding 60 PSI after a year and falling to 45 PSI with a tired pump. If you’ve ever seen a scoured impeller set from a budget unit, you’ll appreciate why this matters.
6) What makes the Pentek XE high-thrust motor more efficient than standard well pump motors?
Thrust bearings, rotor balance, and winding design separate workhorse motors from average units. The Pentek XE motor delivers higher thrust capacity for deep-well multi-stage pump stacks, meaning less axial play and better stage alignment under load. Pair that with optimized windings and thermal overload protection, and you get strong starts, cooler operation, and consistent torque. In pressure terms, that translates to smoother ramp-up, quicker tank recovery, and fewer mid-shower dips when another fixture opens. Add in built-in lightning protection, and your odds of a nuisance https://www.plumbingsupplyandmore.com/convertible-shallow-well-jet-pumps-1-2-hp.html failure during summer storms drop.
7) Can I install a Myers submersible pump myself or do I need a licensed contractor?
If you’re comfortable with electrical and plumbing codes, yes—many homeowners install successfully using a Myers kit and PSAM’s step-by-step guidance. You’ll need to handle the pitless adapter, drop pipe, correct wire splice kit, torque arrestor, safety rope, pressure tank, and pressure switch. You also must size wire gauge for voltage drop and confirm setpoints. For wells deeper than 200 feet or tight well houses, a licensed contractor is wise. My rule: DIY if you understand TDH, can read a pump curve, and own the right tools. Otherwise, hire it out—bad installs cost pressure and shorten pump life.
8) What’s the difference between 2-wire and 3-wire well pump configurations?
A 2-wire well pump houses the start components (start capacitor/relay) in the motor can—fewer external parts and simpler installs. A 3-wire well pump uses an external control box for starting components, making above-ground diagnostics easier. Performance-wise, both can hit the same curves when sized correctly. For many residential wells, 2-wire at 230V keeps things clean and reliable; if you prefer easy start component swaps without pulling the pump, 3-wire is attractive. Myers supports both, so the choice is about service preference and site conditions, not pressure capability.
9) How long should I expect a Myers Predator Plus pump to last with proper maintenance?
With correct sizing and maintenance, 8–15 years is normal. In ideal conditions—clean water, correct voltage, well-sized tank, and annual checks—20+ years is achievable. Compare that to budget pumps that often bow out at 3–5 years. What shortens life? Undersized horsepower, constant short cycling, poor splices causing heat, and abrasive grit without filtration. The Fangs’ new 1 HP unit is set up for longevity: correct staging, bigger tank, 40/60 setpoint, and seasonal checks. That’s how you get a decade-plus with strong pressure.
10) What maintenance tasks extend well pump lifespan and how often should they be performed?
Annually: test pressure tank pre-charge; verify pressure switch cut-in/cut-out; inspect for leaks at the tank tee; check amp draw at start and run; flush any spin-down sediment filter; and visually inspect wiring and grounds. Every 3–5 years: recheck voltage drop under load, pull water samples for iron/sand, and confirm your pressure recovery time is unchanged from baseline. Any drift—slower recovery, higher amps, or pressure sag—deserves attention. These light-touch tasks keep your pump operating at its intended GPM and pressure curve.
11) How does Myers’ 3-year warranty compare to competitors and what does it cover?
Myers’ 3-year warranty outpaces many competitors who offer 12–18 months, especially in budget lines. It covers manufacturing defects and performance issues—exact coverage depends on model and conditions; PSAM helps with documentation and claims. Practically, this warranty provides real-world protection during the highest-risk window of early failure. When paired with Made in USA quality, NSF/UL/CSA listings, and ready parts support, downtime is minimized. For families like the Fangs, that peace of mind is as valuable as the clean showers.
12) What’s the total cost of ownership over 10 years: Myers vs budget pump brands?
Let’s compare. A budget pump might cost 30–40% less upfront but often lasts 3–5 years, with higher amperage draw at working head and weaker warranties. Expect two to three replacements over a decade, plus labor and downtime—especially painful if you’re irrigating, raising livestock, or running a business from home. A Myers well pump typically runs 8–15 years with lower operating costs thanks to 80%+ hydraulic efficiency near BEP. Add the 3-year warranty, serviceable design, and fewer call-outs, and your 10-year cost per PSI of delivered pressure is lower. The math and the showers both say: choose Myers.
Conclusion: Restore Pressure Once—Then Keep It
Low pressure feels like a dozen little problems. In reality, it’s one system puzzle: pump, staging, motor, controls, tank, and installation details working together. Myers brings the right pieces— stainless steel, Teflon-impregnated staging, Pentek XE motor, 2-wire or 3-wire flexibility, and a true 3-year warranty—backed by Pentair and shipped fast by PSAM with the parts and curves you need.
For the Fang family, moving from an undersized 3/4 HP to a properly staged 1 HP Myers submersible well pump transformed daily life: quiet pump cycles, steady 40/60 performance, second-floor showers that don’t fade, and a milking parlor that cleans on schedule. That’s what happens when you size by TDH, install with discipline, and pick equipment designed to survive real wells.
If you’re facing low pressure, call my team at Plumbing Supply And More. We’ll read your well data, pick the right Myers Predator Plus model, and ship it same-day when in stock. I’ve spent decades fixing wells that never should’ve failed. Let’s set yours up right—so your taps run strong for years, not months.
Rick’s final recommendation:
- Choose stainless and composite staging for long-term pressure. Size by TDH and stage count, not horsepower myths. Balance your pressure tank and switch to stop short cycling. Use Myers for proven reliability and PSAM for parts and support.
Strong water, steady pressure, fewer headaches—that’s the Myers advantage. And it’s worth every single penny.