The shower went cold, the pressure sagged to a hiss, then nothing. That’s the moment most folks learn the true value of a well pump: when it quits. In my three decades of crawling pump houses and pulling drop pipe, I’ve seen two kinds of homeowners—those who invest in a premium pump once, and those who buy budget pumps repeatedly. The first group enjoys hot showers and calm weekends. The second owns a trailer hitch and a bucket brigade. If your home relies on a private well, choosing the right pump isn’t a luxury—it’s non-negotiable.
Two Fridays ago, I got a call from the Benally family outside Gallup, New Mexico. Aaron Benally (39), an electrician, and his wife Mia (37), an ER nurse, live on four acres with their kids Lila (9) and Jace (6). Their 280-foot well had been limping along for months until their previous Red Lion 1 HP thermoplastic unit split at the housing seam after a pressure spike. No water on a school morning is chaos. After years of premature failures, Aaron needed a pump that wouldn’t flinch at grit, depth, or long duty cycles.
This guide is for families like the Benallys—and for contractors who won’t risk callbacks. I’ll show you why Myers Pumps, especially the Predator Plus line, deliver 8–15 years of reliable service (often more), how to size by TDH and flow, why stainless beats cast iron, how to choose between 2-wire and 3-wire, how the Pentek XE motor cuts power costs, and how to install for long-term success. We’ll cover warranty and energy math, pressure tank pairing, and my “Rick’s Picks” for must-have install components. If you depend on a well, this list will keep your water flowing and your weekends peaceful.
#1. Myers Predator Plus Series Stainless Steel Construction - 300 Series Durability for Real-World Wells with Grit and Mineral Load
When you’re counting on steady water pressure every day, pump construction isn’t a spec; it’s your insurance policy. Materials determine how gracefully your system ages.
Here’s why the Predator Plus wins. Myers builds the wet end in 300 series stainless steel—shell, discharge, shaft, and wear parts. That alloy resists chloride-rich water and won’t pit or flake in mineral-heavy wells. Pair that with Teflon-impregnated staging: engineered composite impellers that are naturally slick, shedding grit and sanding without chewing up the bowls. This isn’t theoretical. In the field, that self-lubrication means less wear on tight clearances, sustained efficiency, and quiet operation year after year. Expect a smooth BEP window and minimal performance drop-off as the pump ages.
For the Benallys and their sandy 280-foot well, this mattered. Their failed thermoplastic impellers eroded fast, then lost pressure at the fixtures. After upgrading to a Predator Plus with stainless wet end and Teflon-staged impellers, Aaron watched pressure stabilize—and stay there.
Material Science That Pays Off
Stainless matters because submersion accelerates corrosion potential. 300 series stainless steel handles mildly acidic pH and mineral load far better than coated cast iron. Combined with self-lubricating impellers, friction losses stay low, so you hit target GPM rating without extra horsepower.
Composite Impellers: Wear Patterns and Efficiency
In abrasive wells, hard debris acts like sandpaper. Teflon-impregnated staging disperses those loads, maintaining impeller geometry. The result is retained head pressure across stages and a longer window at or near your BEP.
Built for Daily Duty in Real Homes
The Predator Plus is not a “weekend cabin” pump. It’s designed for continuous service duty in a full residential well water system, where morning shower demand meets laundry cycles without a pressure crash.
Key takeaway: If your water has grit, go stainless plus Teflon staging. Your fixtures—and your nerves—will thank you.
#2. Pentek XE High-Thrust Motor Technology - 230V Single-Phase Efficiency That Cuts Power Bills Without Sacrificing Pressure
If you’ve ever watched a meter spin while a tired pump strains against a deep set, you know motor efficiency isn’t abstract—it’s your utility bill. Myers pairs the Predator Plus wet end with the Pentek XE motor, a high-thrust design that stays cool, resists startup abuse, and sustains torque through long vertical lifts.
Technically speaking, that higher thrust bearing capacity stabilizes the axial loads from a multi-stage pump. Combined with optimized windings on 230V power and built-in thermal overload protection, it keeps the motor in the sweet spot under variable drawdown. Energy use drops, and the system avoids nuisance trips from heat.
For Aaron, stepping up to 230V was a no-brainer. His old motor ran hot and short-cycled under load. The XE’s smoother starts and better torque curve tamed the deep set perfectly.
Franklin vs. Myers: Real-World Motor and Control Differences (Detailed Comparison)
- Technical performance: Franklin Electric builds solid motors, but many models lean on proprietary control boxes, which adds complexity and cost in the field. Myers’ Predator Plus with the Pentek XE motor can be configured in 2-wire well pump or 3-wire well pump formats, offering simpler installations. In efficiency terms, the XE’s torque characteristics and overload design sustain higher head without thermal stress. Both brands are quality; XE’s thrust handling is the differentiator at depth. Field realities: Proprietary controls can create service bottlenecks. Myers’ setups are widely serviceable, and parts are straightforward to source, which keeps downtime down. When a family’s out of water, a lost day matters more than a spec sheet nuance. Value: For homeowners needing fast, dependable repairs, Myers’ field-friendly architecture, plus PSAM’s stocking, makes the XE pairing worth every single penny.
Electrical Sizing That Avoids Headaches
Confirm dedicated 20A breaker on 230V with proper wire gauge down the well. Undersized conductors create voltage drop and heat-up. The Pentek XE motor tolerates variance but still deserves correct wiring.
Start Components and Surge Protection
Whether 2-wire or 3-wire, give your motor clean power and a surge suppressor. Thermal overload protection saves motors; surge protection saves your weekend.
Key takeaway: Power it right once. The XE is a quiet workhorse that keeps your monthly bills and water pressure consistent.
#3. Right-Sizing by Total Dynamic Head - Using Pump Curves to Match 1.5 HP to Depth, Flow, and Family Demand
Wrong size costs more than right size—twice. Too small, and you’re starved for pressure. Too large, and you burn power and slam your tank. The cure is simple: calculate TDH (total dynamic head) and read the pump curve.
For a typical rural home, target 8–12 gpm with 40/60 psi for showers and appliances. Add vertical lift (from pumping depth to pressure tank), friction losses in pipe, and house pressure requirement. For the Benallys’ 280-foot set, 1-inch drop pipe, and a 40/60 switch, their calculated TDH landed around 290–310 feet. A Predator Plus in 1.5 HP at the 10 gpm curve hit the target with clean overhead—no screeching at the top of the curve, no wasted energy running flat out.
How to Calculate TDH Accurately
- Vertical lift: From water level to pressure tank inlet. Pressure: Convert desired psi to feet of head (2.31 feet per psi). Friction: Estimate based on pipe size/length/elbows. Add 10–20% for safety. Now pick a pump whose GPM rating at your TDH sits near its BEP.
1.5 HP vs. 1 HP: When to Step Up
If your TDH approaches the top end of a 1 HP curve, move to 1.5 HP. Pumps running at their ragged edge overheat and die early. A comfortably sized pump sips power and lasts.
Set Depth and Drawdown Reality
Your pumping level isn’t static. Summer drawdown changes lift. Always size with seasonal lows in mind, especially in arid regions like New Mexico.
Key takeaway: Numbers don’t lie. TDH-driven selection keeps pressure rock steady and extends pump life.
#4. 2-Wire vs 3-Wire Configurations - Simplicity vs Serviceability and When Each Wins
Here’s the truth: both systems can be excellent when used correctly. A 2-wire well pump integrates controls into the motor, simplifying installation—fewer components topside, faster swaps. A 3-wire well pump uses an external control box, giving you easy access to capacitors and relays for diagnostics and quick part changes.
In the Benally install, I recommended a 3-wire for serviceability in a rural setting—storms and long runs can be hard on start components, and Aaron’s a handy electrician. If you’re DIY-savvy or remote, the 3-wire’s field diagnostics are worth it. If you’re prioritizing simplicity or working with limited space, go 2-wire and move on with your day.
Electrical and Troubleshooting Considerations
3-wire gives you visible, replaceable start components. If start-up gets sluggish, pop the lid, test capacitance, swap—done. With 2-wire, you pull the pump if starts degrade. Trade-offs are honest; neither is “wrong.”
Upfront Cost and Long-Term Value
2-wire typically saves $200–$400 by avoiding an external control box. Over the life of the system, that savings holds if you don’t need frequent start component replacements. For heavy cycling homes or power-quirky regions, 3-wire may pay back in time saved on service.
Myers Flexibility Advantage
Myers offers both configurations across the Predator Plus line. Pair the format to your maintenance plan and your comfort with electrical diagnostics.
Key takeaway: Choose the wire strategy that fits your lifestyle and location. Myers gives you both, and PSAM stocks parts for either path.
#5. Energy and Performance - Hitting 10–12 GPM at 40/60 PSI Without Oversizing or Spiking Bills
Flow that feels good at the showerhead without gouging your energy bill comes from balanced hydraulics and smart staging. With Predator Plus, you’re buying efficient hydraulics and a motor that behaves under load.
At 40/60 psi with a typical one- or two-bath home, I target 10 gpm for simultaneous fixtures—shower, faucet, and a washing machine. The right Predator Plus model will deliver that flow near the BEP, where internal losses are low and noise is minimal. Pair that with a properly charged tank and calibrated switch, and you’ll get steady pressure and long motor life.
For the Benallys, a 10 gpm curve at roughly 300 feet of head was ideal. No panting at high load, no pressure swings that make you chase valves.
Goulds vs. Myers: Corrosion, Staging, and Real Cost (Detailed Comparison)
- Technical performance: Some Goulds units include cast iron components that are robust but vulnerable in acidic or mineral-rich water. Myers’ all- 300 series stainless steel construction avoids that corrosion risk. Combine that with Teflon-impregnated staging and you get longer-lasting clearances and sustained head production. Real-world implications: When water chemistry is tough (think iron staining or mild acidity), that corrosion edge becomes a service-life problem. Myers holds its efficiency longer, which means fewer Saturday pump pulls. Value: Fewer replacements, fewer callbacks, and stronger warranty support add up. For homeowners depending on private wells, the stainless-and-staging package earns its keep—worth every single penny.
Pressure Tank and Switch Tuning
A correctly sized pressure tank reduces short cycling. For a 10 gpm pump, aim for 20+ gallons of drawdown at 40/60 to keep starts under 30 cycles/day.
Pipe Sizing and Friction Loss
Use 1-inch or 1-1/4-inch from well to tank. High friction steals pressure at fixtures and forces the pump harder than necessary.
Key takeaway: Efficiency is a system outcome—pick the right curve, size the tank, and enjoy steady pressure without paying for it twice.
#6. Field-Serviceable Design - Threaded Assembly That Respects Your Time and Budget
When your pump is 250 feet down, every minute counts. Myers builds the Predator Plus with a threaded assembly design that makes disassembly and reassembly straightforward for qualified contractors. That means you can replace stages, inspect bearings, and service the wet end without turning your rig into a parts cannon.
In practice, this is a huge advantage in rural service. I’ve rebuilt Predator Plus units Plumbing Supply and More myers pump on-site for homeowners like Mia and Aaron, turning a dreaded multi-day outage into a same-afternoon fix. With PSAM’s parts support, you’re back in water fast.
Internal Check Valve and Backflow Integrity
A factory internal check valve protects against backspin and water hammer. Pair it with a topside spring check near the tank tee for best practice. Check valve health is non-negotiable for reliable pressure.
Cable Management and Wear Protection
Use a proper cable guard and tape schedule (every 10 feet on the drop pipe) to prevent jacket chafe. Clean cabling is one of those small details that prevents big headaches.
Pitless Adapter and Freeze Resilience
A quality pitless adapter keeps your lateral sealed and below frost. Bad seals invite groundwater infiltration and winter misery.
Key takeaway: Serviceability isn’t a buzzword. It’s the difference between a quick fix and a five-hour ordeal.
#7. Protection That Matters - 3-Year Warranty, Certifications, and Made in USA Confidence
Warranty is the strongest signal a manufacturer can send about product confidence. Myers backs the Predator Plus with a full 3-year warranty—a cut above the 12–18 months you see on many mid-market options. Add in Made in USA manufacturing and UL listed compliance, and you’ve got a product that’s both rigorously tested and supported.
For the Benallys, extended coverage meant less anxiety. After multiple short-lived pumps, Mia wanted to know her next one wasn’t a gamble. Myers’ warranty and PSAM’s support team delivered that assurance.
What the 3-Year Warranty Means in Practice
Coverage spans manufacturing defects and performance issues. Keep your installation per manual, log your start components, and register your unit through PSAM. If a rare issue appears, you’re not fighting alone.
Third-Party Certifications You Can Trust
Being UL listed isn’t window dressing; it’s a safety benchmark. Combine with factory testing and you eliminate most early-life surprises before that pump ever sees your well.
Made in USA—Supply Chain and QC
Stateside manufacturing tightens quality control and shortens parts lead times. That translates to faster replacements and fewer mystery delays.
Key takeaway: Confidence is built on coverage and compliance. Myers delivers both so you can stop worrying about the “what ifs.”
#8. Real-World Reliability in Tough Wells - Why Stainless Beats Thermoplastic When Pressure Cycles Hard
Desert wells swing with seasons and demand spikes. Pressure cycles and thermal expansion punish cheap materials. The Benallys’ Red Lion’s thermoplastic housing cracked after a hot day of irrigation and back-to-back showers—classic pressure-cycling fatigue.
A Predator Plus stainless shell doesn’t flinch in those scenarios. Combine stainless with controlled staging, and the pump shrugs off day-to-day abuse that would stress a thinner-walled plastic housing.
Red Lion vs. Myers: Housing, Duty Cycle, and Life Expectancy (Detailed Comparison)
- Technical performance: Thermoplastic housings are light and budget-friendly but struggle with thermal expansion and long duty cycles. Myers Pumps built with 300 series stainless steel and Teflon-impregnated staging maintain dimensional stability and resist microcracking under cycling stress. Efficiency also holds better at depth with stainless construction. Field differences: In high-demand homes—irrigation plus domestic load—plastic housings can warp or fracture over time. Stainless construction exhibits predictable wear, so planned maintenance replaces unpleasant surprises. Value judgment: If you rely on your well every day, stainless longevity versus plastic fragility is a cost equation you only need to run once. Myers’ durability earns its place—worth every single penny.
Thermal and Surge Protection in Harsh Environments
Guard your investment with a surge device and a properly set pressure switch. Avoid deadheading the pump, and always confirm tank pre-charge before service.
Duty-Cycle Reality Checks
If you’re running irrigation plus household demand, your system is commercial-light. Size pump and tank accordingly, not for a weekend cabin.
Key takeaway: In harsh wells, stainless isn’t an upgrade—it’s the baseline.
#9. Installation Done Right - Pressure Tank Sizing, Check Valves, and Drop Pipe Practices That Extend Pump Life
Even the best pump can be killed by bad installation. Respect the fundamentals and your system will reward you with a decade or more of calm, clean pressure.
Start with the right pressure tank. Match drawdown to flow: for a 10 gpm pump on a 40/60 switch, at least 20 gallons of drawdown. This drops cycles and cuts motor heat. Next, check valve strategy: rely on the pump’s internal check valve and add a spring check near the tank to prevent backspin. Choose sch 80 or heavy-duty PVC for the first few feet above the pump for abrasion resistance; the rest can be sch 120 PVC or polyethylene rated for deep-well service.
For Aaron’s install, we used 1-inch drop pipe with taped leads every 10 feet, a torque arrestor above the pump, and proper torque clamps. Result: whisper-quiet starts and zero wire abrasion.
Pressure Switch Calibration
Set 40/60 or 30/50 per home needs. Confirm 2 psi below cut-in for tank pre-charge. A mis-set switch can hammer a pump to death in a single season.
Wire Splicing and Moisture Barriers
Use a heat-shrink wire splice kit with adhesive lining. Watertight splices aren’t optional. Moisture in a splice corrodes strands and cooks motors.
Pitless Adapter and Wellhead Integrity
Seal the wellhead with a proper cap, pest screen, and sanitary gasket. Keep contamination and critters out—your fixtures and health will thank you.
Key takeaway: Details determine lifespan. Follow best practices and your Myers system will coast for years.
#10. What I’d Put in My Own Well - Rick’s Picks for the Most Common Homes and Depths
Over the years, patterns emerge. For a four-person household at 150–300 feet, my go-to is a submersible well pump from the Predator Plus Series in 1.5 HP, 10 gpm curve, on 230V. It hits the TDH sweet spot for most mid-deep wells, runs cool, and maintains pressure under load. If your static level is shallow and run is short, a 1 HP might suffice; at 300–490 feet shut-off head with significant friction losses, stay with 1.5 HP.
For the Benallys at 280 feet with sandy water, that pick delivered comfortably. Mia noticed the difference immediately: showers stayed strong while laundry ran, and the irrigation zone didn’t tank indoor pressure.
Accessory Bundle I Recommend
- Torque arrestor, stainless safety cable, and quality check valve Heat-shrink wire splice kit with adhesive Tank tee kit with gauge, relief valve, and drain Surge protection at the panel feeding the pump circuit
Service Interval and Quick Checks
Annually: test amperage, inspect tank pre-charge, confirm switch calibration, and listen for noisy starts. Every 3–5 years: pull and inspect if water quality shifts or pressure declines.
When to Choose 3-Wire
If you’re rural, power is spiky, or you want fast troubleshooting, go 3-wire with an accessible control box. Otherwise, 2-wire keeps it simple and tidy.
Key takeaway: Start with a proven template, then fine-tune to your TDH and usage. Myers gives you headroom and head pressure without drama.
FAQ: Expert Answers from the PSAM Counter
1) How do I determine the correct horsepower for my well depth and household water demand?
Start with your TDH—vertical lift, friction losses, and desired pressure (convert psi to feet: 2.31 ft/psi). For a family of four, target 8–12 gpm at 40/60 psi. Check a Myers pump curve and choose a model that delivers your flow at TDH near the BEP. Example: At 280 feet pumping depth plus 40/60 (≈115 ft head) and friction, many homes land around 280–320 feet TDH. A 1.5 HP Predator Plus at the 10 gpm curve handles that smoothly on 230V power. Oversizing creates short cycling and energy waste; undersizing starves fixtures and overheats motors. My recommendation: calculate TDH carefully, then confirm with PSAM. We’ll match the exact curve, pipe size, and tank to your real-world demand.
2) What GPM flow rate does a typical household need and how do multi-stage impellers affect pressure?
Most homes are happy at 8–12 gpm. If you run irrigation zones simultaneously with household use, aim for 12–15 gpm. A multi-stage pump builds pressure by stacking impellers; each stage adds head. More stages mean more pressure at a given flow, which is critical for deeper sets. The Myers Predator Plus uses Teflon-impregnated staging to maintain those tight clearances longer in abrasive water, so you keep hitting target pressure for years, not months. Example: A 10 gpm Predator Plus sized to 300 ft TDH will deliver steady showers while a washer fills. Pro tip: Do not “choke” a high-flow pump to fake pressure—pick the correct stage count for your TDH.
3) How does the Myers Predator Plus Series achieve 80% hydraulic efficiency compared to competitors?
Efficiency comes from three factors: precision impeller geometry, smooth internal flow paths, and tight but durable stage clearances. Predator Plus nails all three. Operating near BEP yields 80%+ hydraulic efficiency, especially on the 10 gpm curves. The Pentek XE motor complements this with high-thrust bearings and thermal overload protection, minimizing electrical losses at depth. In practice, the combo can trim energy use up to 20% versus a mismatched or worn unit. For households like the Benallys, that savings shows up immediately on the utility bill without sacrificing pressure.
4) Why is 300 series stainless steel superior to cast iron for submersible well pumps?
Submersible environments punish metals. 300 series stainless steel resists corrosion from mineral-rich or mildly acidic water, whereas cast iron can pit, flake, and corrode over time. Stainless keeps hydraulic pathways smooth and dimensions true, preserving performance. It also tolerates thermal cycling without developing microcracks. Add Myers’ stainless discharge and shafting, and you have a wet end that preserves GPM rating and head far beyond typical service intervals. If your water leaves orange stains (iron) or you’ve seen pinhole corrosion on fixtures, stainless isn’t optional—it’s mandatory.
5) How do Teflon-impregnated self-lubricating impellers resist sand and grit damage?
Abrasives grind away at close-clearance parts. Myers fights this by using self-lubricating impellers with Teflon-impregnated staging. The Teflon reduces friction and heat, while the engineered composite disperses abrasive loads instead of letting them chew grooves into the bowls. That preserves stage integrity and keeps you closer to your original GPM rating and head. In sandy wells like the Benallys’, it’s the difference between a pump that holds pressure for a decade and one that gasps for air after two summers.
https://www.plumbingsupplyandmore.com/3-4-hp-12-stage-submersible-well-pump-for-wells.html6) What makes the Pentek XE high-thrust motor more efficient than standard well pump motors?
Thrust bearings carry the axial load of stacked impellers. The Pentek XE motor uses high-capacity thrust bearings and optimized windings to sustain torque at depth without cooking the windings. By staying cool and balanced, the motor runs closer to its design efficiency. Built-in thermal overload protection and lightning-hardened design guard against abuse, while the 230V single-phase configuration minimizes amp draw over long runs. The result: reliable startups, consistent pressure, and energy savings without drama.
7) Can I install a Myers submersible pump myself or do I need a licensed contractor?
If you’re comfortable with electrical work and plumbing, you can install it yourself, especially with a 2-wire well pump configuration. That said, deep wells demand respect: safe splicing, correct torque arrestors, proper drop pipe selection, and sanitary wellhead practices are crucial. A bad splice or mis-set pressure switch can end a motor’s life early. Many homeowners like Aaron (an electrician) DIY with consultation. PSAM supports both pros and skilled DIYers with kits, schematics, and phone support. If your well is 300+ feet or your static level fluctuates heavily, a licensed installer is smart insurance.
8) What’s the difference between 2-wire and 3-wire well pump configurations?
A 2-wire well pump has start components integrated in the motor—simpler install, fewer parts topside. A 3-wire well pump uses an external control box, giving you access to capacitors and relays for quick diagnostics and replacements. Upfront, 2-wire often saves $200–$400. Over time, if you experience frequent starts or power quality issues, 3-wire can reduce service time and costs. Myers offers both in the Predator Plus line, so choose based on service preferences, location, and power stability.
9) How long should I expect a Myers Predator Plus pump to last with proper maintenance?
With correct sizing and a clean install, expect 8–15 years routinely, and 20–30 years isn’t rare in favorable water conditions. Maintenance means annual tank pre-charge checks, pressure switch verification, surge protection, and occasionally pulling the pump for inspection if water quality changes. In abrasive or iron-rich water, Myers’ stainless and Teflon staging slow wear, preserving curve performance. That’s how families like the Benallys move from “pump every few years” to a decade-plus of quiet reliability.
10) What maintenance tasks extend well pump lifespan and how often should they be performed?
Annually: verify tank pre-charge (2 psi below cut-in), inspect contacts in the pressure switch, test amperage draw, and listen for noisy starts. Every 3–5 years or upon pressure decline: sample water quality, check for iron/sediment increase, and consider pulling the pump for stage inspection if performance has drifted. Protect the circuit with a surge device; thermal overload protection is great, but clean power is better. Keep vegetation and pests away from the wellhead and ensure the cap’s gasket seals tight.
11) How does Myers’ 3-year warranty compare to competitors and what does it cover?
Myers’ 3-year warranty exceeds the 12–18 months common in mid-range competitors. It covers manufacturing defects and performance issues when installed per manual and local code. Register the product, keep proof of install, and retain maintenance notes. Combined with PSAM’s tech support and parts availability, you’re covered if anything non-abuse-related pops up. That warranty length reflects confidence in the Predator Plus’ materials, design, and QC—peace of mind that’s hard to overvalue.
12) What’s the total cost of ownership over 10 years: Myers vs budget pump brands?
A budget submersible might cost half upfront but often lasts 3–5 years, especially in deeper or abrasive wells. Across 10 years, you could buy two or three budget pumps, pay for two installs, and suffer multiple outages. Myers’ Predator Plus, sized correctly, frequently delivers 8–15 years on the first install, with energy savings from operating near BEP and the Pentek XE motor. Factor in PSAM’s same-day shipping on in-stock units and limited downtime, and the math gets simple: fewer replacements, lower power use, and less stress. In my ledger, Myers wins TCO decisively.
Conclusion: The Calm Confidence of a Properly Sized Myers System
From the Benally family’s 280-foot New Mexico well to countless systems I’ve commissioned across the country, the pattern holds: when you size by TDH, select the right Predator Plus Series model, choose your 2-wire well pump or 3-wire well pump configuration intentionally, and install with care, you get quiet, steady water for years. Stainless construction, Teflon-impregnated staging, and the Pentek XE motor do the heavy lifting. The 3-year warranty and PSAM’s field-savvy support keep you covered.
You don’t have to be a pump nerd to enjoy great water. You just need the right partner. At Plumbing Supply And More, my job is to make pump selection faster, easier, and more reliable—so your weekends belong to family, not to pipe wrenches. Choose Myers, and put this problem to bed.